Wednesday, January 18, 2012

No light there and prime labels

Imagine a village with the population of 35,000 souls and not a single stoplight. Antigua is such a village and vehicular traffic always has the right-of-way. It matters not that you are a pedestrian nor that you ambulate slowly or not at all. You do not have priority here, regardless. Don't plan on it - the vehicle will not stop for you. There are many one-way streets and crossing avenues or streets often have stop signs. Traffic policemen do direct traffic on special occasions such as fines de semana (weekends) as well as during Semana Santa (Holy Week), Pascuas (Easter) and the weeks leading up thereto. They also do assist greatly in the mighty influx of visitors entering this village from Guatemala City on weekends. Residents get a decal which is displayed on their vehicular windscreens (okay, windshields) which identifies them as residents and therefore eliminates the need to pay a Q10/day (USD1.20) parking permit. Travelers through the city who do not park may pass without the payment of the fee. The city has an ordinance against the use of horns or klaxons so rarely do we hear their sounds. We do hear the wail of the ambulances from time to time and the sirens of the patrol cars, the sounds of which are reminiscent of certain scenes in the movie Anne Frank's Diary. But, other than that, the only disturbing and startling sounds coming to our eardrums would be the roar of the chicken buses, the yaps of curs and the tumult as a result of the thunderous voices of the fireworks.

Prime European, Japanese and North American labels can be spotted being worn by countless residents of this wee village. One would think at times that one were strolling Fifth Avenue. Before we discovered the source of such apparent excess in this Third World country, we were puzzled. Since there are not Salvation Army or other thrift stores or rag shops that we have located here, we could only make assumptions as to the clothing's origin. But, upon further study, we discovered that a phenomenon known as the opening of the paca is done not only in this village but in many areas of Guatemala. The Spanish term paca can be translated to English as "bale" (as in bale of hay or of cotton). It appears that items no longer considered salable in the USA, or, perhaps excess amounts of certain types of superfluous clothing received at donation centers are combined in large bales and shipped by ocean to other places. One of the recipient locales would be Guatemala. Now, mind you, when the opening of the bales takes place here, there is great excitement. This excitement begins when notice of a time and place is given to the locals days before the bale arrives. Let me tell you, things fly high into the air on that day causing virtual windmills to appear above the paca. There is pawing, grabbing, sorting and just about anything else connected with the discovery of coveted items, especially those with a marca (distinguishing mark or brand) to enhance and to augment one's life. What is even better here in Antigua, we have discovered that instead of and in addition to the opening of the paca, there is an entire section of the metropolitan market set aside for clothing from rag shops in the USA. The metropolitan market is spread out over an area perhaps three city blocks square.The clothing section comprises a space that would easily fill to the gills any rag shop you have ever visited. And that would be inclusive of the Salvation Army thrift stores. One can easily depend solely upon this area to dress oneself. Not only do local residents of Antigua shop here. We regularly see ex-pats roam the aisles seeking new rags. And, I have asked Daysi, the maid on the compound who makes her rounds on Thursdays in this part of the market to be on the lookout for a pair of gym shorts for me (with elastic waist, thank-you). It pays to be picky when one has a choice! Of course, I asked for the no-brand variety. Brands for me are "so yesterday".

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