Arrival of Don and Nance

We had been invited to our friends Gerry and Juliana O'Connor in Guatemala City for supper before Don and Nance arrived. It turned out that John had planned a day of washing clothes and cleaning his digs so he was unable to schedule the trip to the city. Instead, I had planned to take the four o'clock Teligua shuttle just a block or so from where we live to the city. I checked two hours before it was to have departed and the office was closed. It was also closed one hour before so I made alternative plans - jumped on a chicken bus and took the last 15 minutes to the O'Connor home in a taxi.

It was an easy transfer and when I arrived, I rang and only Gerry was at home. Juliana was out shopping for things for dinner. I stood on the ground level of the building waiting for Gerry to come down from the seventeenth floor to meet me. I spent the time visiting with the security guard. Before Gerry arrived, I noticed that Juliana was heading into the garage so we managed to all converge together.

Went into the lobby and we took the elevator to the top floor where they make their home. Then, while Juliana prepared our meal, Gerry and I sat and conversed. Soon there were treats set before us and Juliana joined us in conversation. 

The O'Connors have a commanding view over a good portion of the city and of its surrounding areas. One of the three prominent volcanoes just south of Antigua was easily visible from one of their three porches and stood high as the rays of the setting sun caught its glory. Quite an impressive sight. 

Supper was called and I was placed in a position so that I could see the city lights straight ahead and to each of the sides. There were large windows with sliding doors to permit ingress/egress from or to the porches. It was from one of these that we viewed the American Airlines plane in its final landing pattern lower itself onto the runway. It had landed five minutes ahead of schedule and we would soon be heading for the airport - a short ten minute ride from their home. 

We arrived at La Aurora airport and I jumped out of their car to make arrangements for our eventual shuttle trip back to Antigua while they awaited at curbside. I found many shuttles but no pilots so I was unable to determine which of those minibuses would be heading in our direction. I walked back to where passengers exit and within minutes Don and Nance were heading out with their suitcases in tow. We connected with Gerry and Juliana and made introductions and they went back to their car. About that time I heard Antigua, turned and there was a legless man on a board with wheels saying to me that he knew where the shuttle was to Antigua. We followed and came to one of the vans I had previously passed. The pilot was now there and I paid for three passages and entered the van. The pilot, in hopes of additional fares, raised one hand and put  the tips of his thumb together with his pointer finger which indicated to me that he was waiting for more folks. We waited maybe ten minutes and out came a baker's dozen of potential passengers, all with luggage. Instead of riding in the back seat of the van, the luggage Don and Nance had stowed there was moved to the top of the van together with all of the other bags. The additional passengers seated themselves and began to talk in a somewhat familiar tongue, not English nor was it Spanish. I listened and heard a word or two that seemed more than familiar but could not really make it out. It turned out that they were Norwegians coming to Guatemala to spend a week or so.

The luggage was all stowed and all but perhaps one jump seat was occupied and still the pilot did the little hand routine to me. I do not know why he disappeared into the terminal once again but he returned within five minutes and we were ready to go. He asked me which hotel and I told him it would be a house and I would let him know where it was. He was fine with that and we began our approximately 45 minutes trip to Antigua with very light traffic flow.

We pulled up to the door of the Philippi compound, alighted and waited for the two bags which had been securely tied to avoid disappointment. They were off in a jiffy and we were inside the walled compound. I gave Don and Nance a brief orientation and I suspect they and I were in bed within minutes.

Today we hope to go to Casa Santo Domingo for breakfast buffet and then to church. 

A night in the capital city

John and I decided to spend a night in Guatemala City in order to purchase tickets for the four of us to cover the first leg of our planned journey which will commence this coming Tuesday. We caught a shuttle which we shared with two others just a block away from where we live. It took us perhaps the better part of an hour to go the forty kilometers. Before we reached our destination in Zona 10, we lost one passenger whose destination we reached before ours. Then we circled into the Zona Viva where our hotel, the Stofella is situated. The final passenger was heading for the Teligua bus terminal where he was going to catch a bus which would take him on the five-hour stint to Puerto Barrios. He would then catch a water shuttle to his hometown in Belize, Punta Gorda.

Our driver left us at the gate and we felt we were in pretty familiar territory. Zona 10 is perhaps one of the safest and enjoyable places in the capital city. We checked into the hotel where we had stayed many time in the past and were shortly in our room. We had not eaten anything since breakfast so we were ready to hike to Cafe San Martin which was just a short block away. They have a bakery connected to their establishment so we of course had to look at the case. We settled on salad and sandwich and John had a pasta dish. We did finish it up with coffee and tea with some sweets from the case! Then back to the room for a good night's rest.

The next morning after the hotel's buffet breakfast we set out for the Intercontinental Hotel where we talked with the concierge to gain knowledge about ticketing for our trips. We found that the only ticket it was wise to purchase in Guatemala City was the one we would be using on Tuesday for travel from the capital to El Salvador. The reason being that Guatemala would impose taxes on purchases for travel outside of the country and El Salvador would not. So, we have tickets in hand for the first leg and will attend to the remaining three in El Salvador and Costa Rica.

After ticket purchase we found Cafe Barista a branch of which is also in Antigua and had coffee and tea. Then to the hotel for check out and a short ride in a taxi to the terminal of the chicken bus that would take us back to the door of the Philippi compound. Our fares for the taxi and chicken bus rides totaled  $11.49 to make the 50 kilometer ride. Of course it was necessary to hang tightly to the chrome bars above the backs of the seats in the bus to stay put in our seats.

After about an hour we were at the gate and here we are for a spell.

A week of respite in Antigua

Away is good, home is best. I have used this saying before in my posts and I will repeat it once again. Though this is not our actual long-term home, Antigua in our current setting is pretty close to the comfort zone that we enjoy in Arizona. But, we do plan times away from what has pretty much defined our lives in both Arizona and in Guatemala. While we always enjoy new places and experiences, we find ourselves almost always comparing and contrasting new situations with what we have already experienced. Often when traveling, we might say to one another that this reminds me of this and that - places or situations that we have already experienced.

Our recent time away at Panajachel and at Quetzaltenango was very rewarding and we always do love to experience differences when we travel. Again, as I have stated several times before in my posts, we tend to look at new experiences and situations as neither correct nor incorrect but different. I believe both of us are willing to employ new things that we feel will benefit us personally and corporately but we also feel it beneficial to ward off those things that would not enhance our experiences and lives. Even though we are far nearer 100 years of age than zero, it is still quite easy to be flexible when we encounter differences. Yes, I do hang my toilet paper so that the paper hangs over the top instead of under and I make sure that tubes of toothpaste or ointment are squeezed from the bottom with the tails always wound up but who really cares? Any combination of ways really do work. Why spend time worrying about trivia? So, we are excited about new situations and both of us embrace and welcome the "new". That having been said, we do have many items still on our "to do" list.

It has been a restful handful of days in Antigua. Again, borta bra men hemma bäst - Swedish for away is good but home is best. But, John and I both have commented on our quick recovery from being away. It takes only a handful of days or so before we both are ready to wash our clothes and pack our bags for new discoveries. 

So, that having been said, we did arrive back here on Sunday and today we are traveling into Guatemala City to purchase tickets for our up-coming trip with brother Don and sister-in-law Nance this coming Tuesday. We will be making this trip to Costa Rica with two hiccoughs: one in El Salvador and the other one in Nicaragua. We will take a motor coach from Guatemala City to San Salvador on the first leg. In San Salvador we will rent a vehicle and do some sight-seeing in and around El Salvador for two or three days. Then, we will begin our second leg by taking another motor coach from San Salvador to Managua. Again, we will rent a car and do some travel in and out of the capital city to visit spots we especially enjoy in Nicaragua. Our third leg will be done by motor coach again from Managua to San Jose, Costa Rica. In that city we hope to connect with some of our new-found friends that we met on our trip to Belize a few weeks ago. After a very short time in the capital city, we will take a fourth motor coach to the coastal city of Jaco, Costa Rica where mutual friends of ours live and work. We hope to sight-see and visit with our friends there for a few days after which we will return by motor coach to San Jose for our respective flights back to the USA for Don and Nance and returning to Guatemala City for us and eventually to Antigua. Our target date for return to Antigua is 10 March.

Most of our itinerary except for Jaco will be familiar to both of us as we took a whirlwind swing through all of the Central American countries a year or so ago. So, there should be few if any surprises on this journey. However Don and Nance will be traveling in new territory and it will be enjoyable to see and hear of their experiences. We both enjoy re-experiencing situations new to others but familiar to us. We tend to see again what sparked interest in us on our first passing.

John has informed me that some of the legs in the motor coaches will consume a passel of hours - some up to twelve. Me thinks that it might be good to have a whoopee cushion to relieve maximus gluteus discomfort and pain. I suspect we can just squirm and try to distribute or redistribute pressure on the trouble spots.

That is the story for now. We are looking forward to the arrival of Don and Nance who are scheduled to be on a flight from DFW to Guatemala City this coming Saturday night at 7:55. Until then, we have clothes to wash.

Passage from Xela to Antigua

As I mentioned in my last post, we had other sojourners join us at the B&B on Saturday. While I was sitting enjoying the bottom level patio, the owner of the B&B asked me if I would mind pulling the little car up as far as it would go because there would be others needing to share the parking space. Instead of doing it myself, I offered the car keys and she thanked me.

As it turned out, when we were making our egress for supper Saturday evening, we met the two families with the SUVs attempting to make their ingress to the B&B. By the time we had returned from our afternoon nourishment, we found that they had filled completely the parking space directly behind the little black bug KIA without having to move our rental vehicle one iota. But, by the time we had decided it was time to retire for the night, I realized that there might be a problem with the two SUVs behind me because we were planning on an 8:00 a.m. departure early on Sunday in order to get our vehicle back for check-in at Hertz to avoid paying for an extra day. As in most of the Latin American countries where I have traveled, Guatemala is not much different in that Sunday mornings many folks sleep in and even cities are far quieter and realize less stressful activities on the Lord's day.

Before I was able to talk with the owners, I noticed that they were leaving for the evening. So, later I checked to see if there might be any light in their apartment but found it dark. Well, the owner still had my car keys and, as far as I knew, there was no knowledge of our intent in the minds of the drivers of the two SUVs so I was concerned that we might not get out as quickly as we had planned. While our time to turn in the car was around 1 p.m., we were unsure of travel time between Xela and Antigua. We had heard anything from four hours to a low of 3 so we did have some time to play with.

I finally wrote an e-mail to the owner and shared my concern with her. Her response was immediate so they apparently did make it back. She had told the other folks of our need to exit by 8 and she had turned the car key over to the cook and with thanks, bid us good-bye in the event she was not up in the morning.  So I could go to bed with no problems stored in the head. And that I did soon thereafter. I was lulled to sleep by some fine music which was fed directly into my ears via my Bose Quiet Comfort 15 headphones. Just before I lost consciousness the last time, I pulled them off, turned the iPod and headphones off and fell asleep.

We awakened shortly after six and I peeked outside the window. December through February are some of the chilliest months in Xela and the rains come predictably in the month of February. Although we got no rain during our brief visit to Quezaltenango, there was always a sense of dampness in the atmosphere and even the bed linens felt damp or dank until our body heat served to warm the enclosure in which we were encapsulated for the night. As happened the night before, all covers were welcome at first but as the night deepened, they were eliminated until only one remained.

We got our things packed and went outside to check out the cool morning temperature. There was fog which obstructed views on all sides of the patio. Not one of the mountains surrounding the city was visible as we ascended the stairs to the patio for breakfast.

Instead of one table set for breakfast, there were three. We opted for 7:30 serving and we could already see evidence that the cook had been there. The frying pans were smoking and ready for the eggs that we had both ordered. The cook soon appeared and we heard the eggs being scrambled and the blender making the licuados. The eggs were served with refried black beans and a very mild tomato sauce. We also got a papaya licuado and fresh fruit. Remember what I told you in the last post about the odor of fresh bread? Well, we each got two slices of that and it was great. John resurrected the New Zealand butter together with his freshly prepared blackberry preserves to enhance something which hardly needed either. But it was good and a splendid treat. Top that off with coffee and tea and you know what we enjoyed together this morning before our journey.

Going back to when we left our room, we noticed that the two doors were ajar where the newcomers had spent their night. And, at least one of the drivers was already out and making the alarm go off in his car. So, I figured that they had in fact received the word and we had a great chance of leaving on time. We knew that they had breakfast scheduled at 8 so that was another good sign. Very few of us intentionally stray from the feeding trough when the odor and aromas find our nostrils. We may even be enticed from slumber to satisfy such desires and poke our snouts into the mash.

The cook did indeed have my keys and turned them over to me. So, when we finished feeding ourselves, we descended to the area of our room and car. It took only about 5 minutes for us to get packed and, even before 8, the two drivers had the door to the garage open and were backing their vehicles. Our little KIA was securely packed, we jumped into the front seats and I started the engine and backed out. We said our final good-byes and headed out of town. The owner had told us that she lived in Antigua previously and that the drive between the two cities never took her more than three hours so we figured we were in pretty fair shape since the clock in the KIA indicated that we were under way by 8:07.

It took us about 15 minutes to reach the Pan American highway on which we traveled until the last handful of miles. For the most part and excluding two or three very short areas of construction, we traveled on gorgeous four-line highways. Of course we had no option other than to pass through Chimaltenango where the thoroughfare narrowed down to two-lanes and very busy and full streets. Though once through that city we had only about a dozen kilometers until we reached the sign to Antigua.

Our time expended from Xela to the Camino Real Hotel in Antigua was a very abbreviated two hours and thirty-five minutes. We did stop to refuel and also to unload the vehicle before we turned it in at the hotel. The Hertz rental clerk was not surprised that the refueling only required two and three-quarters gallons. That was from Panajachel-Xela-Antigua. We liked that aspect of the rental about as much as anything else. The car is a little underpowered but drives well and easily accommodated two portly gentlemen with substantial girth and gear. Most larger cars zoomed by us in the mountains and, of course, the chicken buses gave me more than a good run for our money. They had no problems revving up their engines and flying past us even on the steepest inclines. But, we out-foxed them with regard to their brake pads: ours are pretty much intact but theirs will be needing replacement far more quickly. They use their brakes much of the time instead of permitting the motor to do the braking for them on the declines. The stench of noxious burned brake shoes is not nice nor is the odor of the smoke that the burning produces. Putrid to say the very least.

The Pan American Highway leads through some of the most fascinatingly gorgeous terrain in the part of Guatemala where we found ourselves. The fog that had obstructed our view as we arose from our beds that morning cleared away within less than an hour of our return trip’s inception. This was exactly as the cook had predicted when we asked about the fogs. There were some spectacular views and ready and easily accessible miradors (lookouts) along the way but the camera was securely resting behind my legs and had absolutely no desire or bent to leave the comfort of its nido (nest). Sorry to say, I just was not driven or given to stop, compose and shoot. Sorry for you and regretful as the results might have been fantastic. I leave it for you to rue my decision. But, for now, they are secrets implanted firmly in the heads of John and me. It is a geographic area that I would welcome showing to anybody willing to expend time and resources to come for a visit. You will be rewarded and then you can decide whether or not you want to shoot an image on your memory stick, on your grey matter or perhaps both. Another and easy tell-nothing answer I shall steal from the vocabulary-challenged children of today - “it was awesome“.

So, having reached our destination, we turned in the unblemished KIA and walked the four or five blocks to McDonald’s where we ordered coffee and tea before we walked the balance of the way back to the Philippis where we are presently relaxing. The temperature here is t-shirt and Levi weather and doing absolutely nothing is absolutely delightful and a superb idea..

We had a great experience in Xela and John and I have already decided that we need to invest in more time in the area of Xela. Maybe a longer rental. Or, possibly some school? Did I say that? Ouch! I know some of you may wonder just how Quetzaltenango and Xela are pronounced. My closest take on the names of that town are kate-saul-ten-ongo with accent on the ongo for Quetzaltenango. For Xela just try shay-lah with accent on the shay. There you have it. They might even think you are from here if you pronounce it that way.

So, we have a down week now to make ready for our up-coming trekking with Don and Nance in El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica in about a week from now.

Scheduled at 7 sharp tomorrow morning is our normal walk about the Cerro de la Cruz. I am looking forward to it and to seeing our regulars along our trekking route. Very good for the mind and spirit. And, the body!

Our last evening in Xela

We walked a good five or six miles today if you consider our stroll about this morning plus our afternoon stroll to Parque Central. There were far fewer vehicles on the city streets during our afternoon walk than there were at midday when we were using the taxi to return with our purchases.

The park was full this afternoon and after dining in style at McDonald's, we decided to take a swing through La Iglesia del Espiritu Santo (Catedral) which abuts the central park. It is a large domed church with numerous side altars. Only one worshiper tarried at the altar of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. There were few worshipers inside but we did have a good look at the interior before we headed back to the B&B. 

On our way out of the B&B this afternoon we met a group of perhaps a dozen who had arrived in two large SUVs. Since the owners had made a foray for shopping this afternoon, there were only the two hired help to greet the incoming crowd. There are seven rooms here in the B&B plus a one bedroom apartment and an efficiency. Aside from us last night there was only one other accommodation occupied: the one bedroom apartment. It is occupied by a long-term rental which has extended for one year.

So, tonight instead of having two cars inside the courtyard, there are three. The owner's vehicle will be located elsewhere apparently as the large SUVs and the mini KIA fill to the brim any parking spaces inside the locked doors.

We have a journey tomorrow that can last anywhere from three to four hours. We expect very little competition on the motorways tomorrow morning as it is Sunday and we have found that most of the villages and cities we have visited and lived in are extremely slow to move on Sunday mornings. We have approximately one hour back to where we met the highway from Lago de Atitlán and then an additional two to three hours to Antigua. We need to return the Hertz rental before we turn into pumpkins at 1:00 p.m.

It is just short of 5 in the afternoon as I sit writing this on the upper patio of the B&B. I have a t-shirt on and it is very comfortable. If I were to render a guess, I might say it is in the low 70s. I had my camera along on one of the treks about the city but a combination of the smoke and smut in the air together with poor angles of the sun combined to discourage me from making any attempt to record images on my camera's memory. There is an extensive amount of burning in this area and the putrid odors hang heavily in the atmosphere. Perhaps when the rains come to wash the air - I simply do not know. But, if there were a clear day, the surrounding mountains I am positive are stunning. The potential is fantastic but there are no burning bans anywhere even in the middle of this city of 200,000 inhabitants.

As I write I am within 12 feet of the outdoor kitchen and two of the hired hands here are baking bread the odors of which are wafting this way. We have one pound of New Zealand butter inside the refrigerator here and you do not know how tempting it would be for me to request the heel of the loaf. I shall not as it will be served to me tomorrow at half past seven for breakfast and I can and will wait.

Speaking of help, even before the owner and his wife of the B&B arrived back from the shopping spree this afternoon, the two ladies skipped down the stairs to meet them and to help carry the bundles up the stairs to their residence in the front of the second story near the street. They must have been alerted by a mobile phone call. It is an odd situation that we see time after time even at the home of the Philippis in Antigua. Normally Rumaldo is summoned to unload and carry parcels and larger items into the house or into the storage places on the property. But, I have seen Daysi tote items too. I am reminded strongly of the book and movie The Help. If there is any grumbling among the ones who really keep the fires burning and the household whole, I simply have not heard it but I would not know as I have not been taken into the confidences of the Inner Circle. I would love to know and I would love to sing their song too because it seems inequitable to me.

I feel a few more tales are in order as the first telling that hit my ears created a fascination for me. I trust that it may give you pause as well. When we were at Las Buenas Nuevas we enjoyed hearing of the experiences of Niel and Diana. Three of them are worthy of note and follow.

When Niel and Diana were driving down from the USA through Mexico to Guatemala, they were near Poza Rica and were given the choice of going on a toll road (which is normally well-maintained and safer) and the old road which is just the opposite. Neither Niel nor Diana had much if any Spanish under their belts at that time and when they were given the choice of going on cuota (toll) or on the main road to Poza Rica, they opted for the road going to the town, the name of which they recognized. Not long after opting for the main road, they were stopped by a policeman who threatened and bribed them. They ended up paying USD200 and were on their way they thought. Not much further down the road they were stopped by federales who told them in broken English to respect them. They said that their children needed food and that they had insufficient money to pay for the vittles. If I remember correctly, they got by with USD20 that time.

The second incident was when they were in Antigua on official business. It also happened to be one of the weekends when John and I were out at the lake and we expected to see them. When we failed to connect with them, we heard that their vehicle had been stolen in Antigua and they needed to fill out a myriad of official papers on Monday.

The third incident was when Diana's sister flew to Guatemala City to spend some time with the two of them at the lake. At that time, Niel was somewhat new to Guatemala and got up enough nerve to drive to the city and to its airport. He was successful in reaching the airport, picking up Diana's sister and returning to the lake where they spent time together. But, Niel lacked sufficient confidence to make the return trip to the capital city to deliver her to the airport. Instead, Niel and Diana decided to book her on a shuttle running from the lake to a hostel near the airport. They also booked the hostel which would provide a quick transfer to the airport on the next morning. They saw Diana's sister off and heard nothing more until much later. The rest of the story they were to hear only after the sister arrived in Guatemala City. So, the sister boarded the shuttle and rode for an hour or so until armed thugs forced the pilot to stop. Everybody got out and first the thugs demanded all of the money from the pilot who had received passages from all the passengers. Next the thugs demanded the money and electronics from the passengers. Finally they were told to all sit on the highway and to mind their business. Just then a small private car approached and when they saw what was happening, they turned their car around and gunned the engine. But not before the thugs fired their guns into the speeding vehicle. At that moment, the sister was wide-eyed but was also trying to calm a young French girl whose boyfriend was unable to do so. When nothing more could be extracted from either the passengers or the pilot, they were told they could continue on their journey. So, this country is not always safe and things can and do still occur. But, my take on it is there are many opportunities out there and if we shy away and become timid about them, we accomplish nothing.

So, that is how it looks from this standpoint this afternoon. We have one more night at the B&B then the ride back to Antigua. I shall next report from Antigua should we be successful in our return.

In Quetzaltenango (Xela)

For absolutely no good reason, we were both fatigued when we reached B&B Bartolomé here in this elevated city high above the sea level. But, when we got the car parked within the walls of the compound where we were to stay for a duet of days, we both figured we would at least walk the six blocks to the central park and plaza of the city we were visiting. Along the way we noted that the sidewalks were even narrower than those we had become accustomed to in Antigua. While it was possible to meet and pass others coming in the opposite direction, it was not always easy - especially when the meeting party was as portly as we are. Stepping down into the street was the only answer when that happened. Some of the streets are also narrower than those in Antigua and reminded both of us of some lanes in Italy and Spain. Lanes which we would think were one-way were in fact provided for cars going both directions. We witnessed several cars having to stop, pull the mirrors on both sides of the automobile in towards the windows and then proceed slowly while driving upon the narrow sidewalk to pass an on-coming vehicle. There is a charm about this city and a definite European feel if ever so slightly.

We walked about the square and inquired of the residents who were vending in the area where we could find a post office. We were given precise directions which we followed and we walked an additional three short blocks to find the Correo doors open and, upon entering, a large unattended counter. We did spot two or three workers in the back area and one immediately came up and greeted us. We returned the greeting and I asked where I might find a buzón for the three postal cards we had finished and awaited posting. She responded that we had found the buzón and immediately canceled the stamps which we had purchased at Q6.50 (approximately USD0.84).

We walked a bit further and then headed back to the Parque Central where we found an old colonial-type hotel that had a beautiful patio cafe which beckoned to us. We were at first going to just refresh ourselves from our trekking but when we saw the menu, we decided to make it our second meal of the day. We sat there enjoying our rest and soon the food that was set before us. Before we could begin though another couple finished their meal and when passing, the lady wished us buen provecho. This is very common when people pass others in eating establishments in this country. The greeting is given by just about anybody who passes others at tables where they might be in the midst of feeding their faces and stomachs. The translation into French would be "bon appetit". You take it from there to translate once more into our mother tongue.

We finished our meal and were questioned about dessert and/or coffee. We opted for a coffee and tea. My tea was great, John's coffee was inferior and had sat on the burner too long to be enjoyed as fresh brew.

Then the six block walk back to our digs for the night and a time to catch up on-line. Then it was to bed for me and for John. Our beds were adorned with thick, decorated bedspreads under which there were two blankets at least one-quarter inch thick each. The next layer was a sheet under which each of us sandwiched ourselves in our separate beds. Fortunate that I traveled with my own pillow this time. As a much younger person, I would not leave home without my own pillow. Made most nights more than tolerable, despite the circumstances! The pillows here leave much to be desired. But, sleep I did and to believe reports from John, there was little time counting sheep or examining the cracks in the dark ceiling overhead. Both of us reported enjoying all the covers to begin our slumber but both of us reported that they were removed, one by one, until just a sheet and one blanket remained. We also noted that the windows had steamed up when we both awakened in the morning. Much like the full barn of bossies warms up considerably during the winter time, we had generated a great deal of hot air between us in that small room. There is no heating here or cooling in the majority of homes and businesses here so during the cooler portions of the year, one does what one has to - dons additional layers for comfort.

Our breakfast was set the evening before for 8 this morning. We were given choices of three of four items and that had been done before we retired. We showered with very hot and full-pressured streams of water, dressed and headed upstairs on the patio to enjoy our breakfast. Good coffee for John and my own English breakfast tea for me! I had pancakes and John had cold cereal.

We walked about four miles throughout the city center and then out to a fairly new shopping center. On the way we viewed an assortment of areas which included both businesses and residences. We passed a large, well-manicured Mormon church as well as other churches along the way. We finally reached the commercial center called La Torre. Behind the center and high above the commercial center as well as the city was a huge white temple upon whose spire stood the Angel Moroni blowing his golden trumpet. It is apparent that the Mormons have an outstanding presence here. And, yes, Wal-Mart is also here folks. For those of you who despise it and its omnipresence, neither of us is in agreement with you. In fact, the truth be told, we disagree with you wholeheartedly. It was wonderful going into that large, fully-stocked warehouse and be able to select from among several different items of the item we were seeking. I challenge you to try making it from the local markets here. You will no longer have an unclear understanding. 

We checked our previously purchased items at the front of the Wal-Mart and received a check card for eventual retrieval on our exit. Checking parcels at the door is very common here which activity I suspect tends to curb the lifting of items without compensation. John was successful in locating all of the items he desired and we checked out, picked up our checked items at the door and headed for the taxi stand. The person who prepared our food this morning had responded to my question about how much we should pay for a taxi from the La Torre shopping center so I knew what I could expect to pay for transport back to our B&B. The first taxi driver wanted almost double of what I expected so we walked away looking for an alternate ride. The driver behind the first yelled out Q30 which was right on queue so we accepted, packed our things and were soon on our way to Parque Bolívar in which part of the city we are staying. Our driver took approximately 20 minutes to reach the B&B. We exited, paid the fare and now we are sitting upstairs in the patio enjoying the beauty of the day. Life is tough my friends! Who knows what lies ahead? I shall report in the next posting. The only thing lacking at the moment is a large hammock which would be swinging in the light breezes up here.

Passage from Panajachel to Quetzaltenango (Xela)

Thursday was the final delivery of bread and sweets to the team members in Los Encuentros. We were invited to join the team for lunch and gladly accepted. It was very enjoyable to sit at table with some of the team and to enjoy the food that had been prepared by the kitchen staff. The food was more than acceptable and the company excellent. We had chalupas with much of the ingredients coming from the market at Chichitenango just that morning. The pilot of the bus which had been acquired to transport the team hailed from Xela which coincidentally would be our next planned stop so, since we were seated at the same table where he was also breaking bread, we asked him what we should see and do in Quetzaltenango. He was fluent in understandable English so those who were unable to use Spanish were speaking with him in our more familiar tongue. We learned that he had had no formal instruction in the Queen's tongue but had gained fluency in idiomatic English simply by watching television. That blew my mind because he missed not one beat in either understanding or responding to our inquiries. He spoke and understood idiomatic English as any of us native-born speakers would or could. He was also a translator at the clinic during the week. A wonderful addition to the service team to be sure.

He told us that our transport time for the approximately 75 kilometers should be no more than one hour. He also gave us some suggestions for our short visit to his home town of some 200 thousand souls. 

It seemed strange to return to Las Buenas Nuevas for the last time on this trip. But John was relieved that he had fulfilled his promise to supply bread for the week. It is different working in one's own kitchen with one's own stove and equipment, to say nothing about the raw materials going into baking. Some items simply are unavailable locally such as molasses, light brown sugar and buttermilk. But, he managed and managed well according to reports coming back from the team. He made Swedish rye, the wholewheat that mom made when we were lads, corn bread, angel biscuits and banana bread during the week. He made a variety of cookies also. 

The last night at Las Buenas Nuevas we invited Niel and Diana to join us for dinner. They are the resident care-takers of this wonderful spot in Panajachel and we have connected with them on several occasions. We spent a great evening together at probably one of the best restaurants in Pana. It has European cuisine and I heard no complaints from any of us around the table. Niel took his motorcycle because he had promised to pick up some material that needed to be copied for Diana at her classes the next day. Diana, John and I hoofed it up Santander and arrived prior to Niel. The time went rapidly and we had a wonderful time together of conversation and visiting. We heard several different languages in the restaurant as this eating establishment serves a diverse population. Those I could decipher were Spanish, German and English. There may have been more but I will blame it on my failing ability to hear as I did when a youth. You know - the z's c's and s's to say nothing about the wh's and th's! Out time together consumed several hours and so as to not close the greasy spoon down, we bid good-byes and while Niel and Diana piled onto the motorcycle, we walked the few short blocks back to the compound for the night.

The next morning we walked about a block to the Deli for breakfast. Can you imagine an outdoor establishment offering meals with classical music to entertain the diners? That is exactly what we had and it was sufficient encouragement together with the good food to attract us more than twice.

As we sat at the table breaking our fasts, we noticed a number of children gathering in the streets outside. They were coming on foot, on their parents' motos and by tuk tuk. Just as we were seeing this, a small lad came tableside and offered note cards for sale. We asked him what was going on and he told us it was carnival and there would soon be a parade of youngsters. John was manipulated to purchase eight of the cards and then he took his leave because he had spotted something up the street that had to be purchased prior to our departure from Pana. I stood around until the parade began and took a few snaps.

We both found our ways back to the compound and began packing up our things for the final time this year. We bid our good-byes to Niel, Diana, Marco and Marta, packed the car and headed for the gasoline station for a refilling of the peanut of a car. For the week's passages, including that from Antigua to Panajachel, it took no more than about 6 gallons to bring it up to the top of the tank. While I was filling, John was in the store part of the station buying us some peanuts (spicy chili for him and salt and lemon for me). 

Now we would retrace our daily routines at least as far as Los Encuentros where we would pick up the Pan American highway to our next destination. It took us about half an hour to get up to Los Encuentros where we turned left onto the Pan Am highway. There was little or no traffic on the highway which passed through mountains and valleys. On one of the steep inclines there were men standing just a few feet from the  roadside holding sticks on which parrots were perched. For a very small sum we could have had una mascota (a pet). But, we wended our way and pressed forward. The highway on this stretch was four lane so, with the exception of the few construction sites, we sailed without stopping until we reached our destination city just over one hour from Los Encuentros. We made a few wrong turns but they were rectified within minutes or seconds and finally we were entering a major metropolitan area. We funneled into a major thoroughfare and soon John told me to take a left turn followed by yet another left and then a right turn. Up one block and we were situated just outside of the B&B Bartolome. He rang the doorbell, it was answered and soon the doors for the car entrance was opened, I drove in and parked it and we were ready to settle in for two nights.

Bread and sweets to the team

John has been diligent daily in preparing bread and something sweet for the team members just north of Los Encuentros. The one-way trip takes about 40 minutes even though the distance is not great. One has to ensure that the vehicle comes to almost a complete stop before crossing the tumulos or mounds in the streets. Two days ago I counted them and stopped at three dozen. Since they are no longer a surprise to me, they hold far less importance to us. These have been installed to discourage fast passage of buses, cars and motos while using the highways here. They come either announced or unannounced with the later causing quite a stir for passengers and pilots of vehicles on Guatemalan roads and highways. What's more is that one must pass through a very busy town and market place called Sololá. One must twist and turn about the narrow passageways in the town many times following old, converted school buses providing metropolitan transport. It takes several backs for the larger vehicles around the corners of the streets. There are also opportunities to stop at roadside stands to purchase fresh-cut flowers in varying colors and aromas. It is possible to purchase fresh flowers daily for a minimal cost.

Any vehicle can be expected to stop in the middle of the road at any moment to discharge passengers as well as to take on new fares. Motos whiz by and all vehicles pass in curves and where there is a solid yellow line in the middle of the two lanes. It is not unusual to pass a police car with lights blinking in the curves. The difference in altitude between where we are staying and that of our destination where the mission team is providing services is approximately 1,000 feet so there is quite a climb as well as many curves due to the cow and foot paths that first carved out the lanes which later became roads. One must constantly be on the look out and one must always be ready to apply the brakes or alter one's course. Add to it the wide berths that the pilots of the buses take and you can easily get the picture.

We arrive at the mission area just short of noon, their usual lunch hours. We have been invited to join them at the table but have declined each day. But, tomorrow we think that we will sit and enjoy with them. They are having chalupas and John intends to bring along some oatmeal cookies for treats. 

Friday is our final day and he intends to bake some caramel rolls as we make our final delivery on our way to Quetzaltenango or Xela. 

Neither one of us has been to that city which sits at an elevation of about 7,000 feet above sea level so it will be an interesting initiation for each of us. The distance from where we are staying is approximately 70 kilometers so the trip should take us no more than one hour, more or less. Converted to English miles, that would be around 42.

Las Buenas Nuevas & delivery of goodies

We have been guests at Las Buenas Nuevas (the Good News) the CAM R&R house in Panajachel several times during the past half decade. This time we will be here for nearly a week. It is situated directly on the waterfront of the lake. There is only a small strip of shops and restaurants and a stone walkway which lie below the front-most fence and portion of the property and the water itself. There is an unobstructed view of the Atitlan Volcano just across the lake which is visible from the front porch as well as the front room picture window. The weather is mild and there is a light breeze with nearly full sunshine. The thermometer might read 70 degrees. The only thing that is missing is a hammock on the front porch. But there are Adirondack chairs, a tiled-top table and birds chirping all about. Flowers are planted in every direction and the palm fronds are gently moving in the light breeze. The grass is mowed and neatly trimmed as far as the eye can see. There are deck chairs out in the front of the property if one would desire taking in a bit of the sun's rays. Not a whole lot more to desire here I would say. 

Our home for these six days and nights is called the Nueva (new) house. It has a full kitchen with table that could easily accommodate 6 and with a stretch perhaps 8. There is one bedroom with queen-sized bed which has its own bath with shower. The other two bedrooms (one with two twin beds and the other with a queen and one twin) share the remaining bathroom. There is pressurized hot and cold water and the large living room has a wood burning fireplace. There is WiFi available on the property so we are not suffering here. It is a great place to vacate the cares of the world and refresh. 

John has been busy baking both bread and a variety of cookies for the team working about a 45-minute drive away from us. We have already made two successful runs to the clinic to deliver these items. Yesterday was a day of registration when the courtyard and buildings were filled to the brim with those who desired treatment or a checkup. Today it was more sane in that those who registered for services yesterday were given appointment slips for today and sometime through the week ahead. So there was order today whereas there was apparent chaos yesterday.

John and I had an opportunity to tour the building where there was a waiting area, a preparation portion and two operating rooms. I was invited to don a surgical hat and mask and take my camera in to take some flash photos of two operations in progress. Both involved the eyes and both coincidentally involved the removal of cataracts. I even had an opportunity to watch close work on the eye through a scope which hovered about 18 inches above the patient. It was amazing to witness these acts of mercy.

This team is involved only in providing for eyes and diseases of the eyes. However, the facility is equipped for other types of surgery and also can handle dental missions. I was amazed at the diversity available in the facility.

We are back at Nueva again and John will soon begin to prepare for tomorrow's planned delivery. John has everything ready either the night previous or early the morning of the delivery. He was fortunate enough to bring with him most of the equipment that we needed in the preparation and baking of the goods. Most came from Antigua but he has found some items here in the central dispensary of utensils, pots and pans. Tomorrow he plans to make oatmeal cookies and cornbread for the group. By that time I should have a few snaps of some of the patients at the clinic as well as some of the doctors performing surgery. I even caught an elderly couple (maybe about my age) who agreed to have their photograph taken. 

Passage from Antigua to Lago Atitlán via Patzún

In addition to all of the planning on our up-coming trip to Costa Rica with brother Don and sister-in-law Nance, John has been planning the baking as well as our transport to and return from Panajachel. Again, I am along for the ride and I rather enjoy that seat!

He told me that the first delivery of goodies for the team was to take place even before we departed from Antigua. We had located the meeting place where and when the bus would be departing on Saturday and John had the first installment ready to be delivered by 10:00. Our landlady gladly offered to transport us and the cookies to the bus. We were over at the meeting point in a matter of minutes and were met by Margaret.

We went back to our place and made ready for our departure. John had reserved a wee Kia for us to use for the week that we would be absent from Antigua. It was to be picked up at Hotel Camino Real about twelve blocks distant from our residence.

We had not eaten by then so decided to catch a coffee and tea at Cafebarista, a wonderful coffee shop situated right on the corner of Parque Central. In addition to our beverages we indulged in the sharing of a piece of carrot cake. On a scale of 10, I would assign the cake a 9.4. However, the icing would get only a 2.1. I am not a fan of cream cheese and the thick icing was enriched with that delightful commodity. I do know that most would disagree with me on the icing. But, most are not writing this blog. So there! 

Then we walked to the hotel and did the paperwork for the car rental and were on our way back to our place to load our cargo. The dogs were wary and tarried very near to the vehicle. Now Chico has been known to deposit a squirt or two on bags which remain unattended so I cast my eyes about in an attempt to ward of having our things sprinkled.

We were off to see the wizard!! Our landlord had asked us what type of vehicle we had rented and I told him it was just above mini size. He suggested that we not take the route through Patzún because we would have to ford a river where the bridge had been washed away. I thought it good advice but failed to pass it on to John who had Googled our route and knew exactly where and when we were going. I was just the pilot of the vehicle.

Well, it turned out that we did indeed take the scenic route which we found came to an abrupt end at the river's edge. Oh boy, now I did it! My eyes got big as I pondered if the old Kia would ford the stream or just float away. I wondered whether or not I should roll up my jeans and wade out to the deepest spot. You must remember that I have lived in San Antonio where time after time operators of motor vehicles disregard the warnings of high water and stall. Some are even swept away. But, there were three lads with shovels on the other side who continued to egg me on and beckon to me and pointed out spots that I supposed were the most shallow at the crossing point. Mind you, the river was running and it was not calm. I eyed the river and looked at the faces of the three who were encouraging me to come forward and my mind gave an affirmative. I gunned it down into the river and the sedan lurched forward and responded without further hesitation. As we hit the riverbed, the water splashed up and we sunk down onto the bed. I revved the sedan and it responded swiftly across until we came to the other side. At that edge there was a marked incline which we hit and began to slip slide before the tires of the KIA finally got traction. My take on it was if we did stall, there were three eager lads who had enticed me initially and they would have to help push me out and up. That is if the car were not sailing down the stream. Also, the wireless companies in this country are far superior to those in the USA at least in their coverage. We do not have "dead spots" here. Or, at least I have never encountered them. And, Hertz gave me a number for any type of emergency. Additionally, I had the mobile number of the renting agent in Antigua who assured me that she would help in any situation. So, contrary to the good advice and instructions that I had received, I decided to take a chance and we made it safely to the other side.

We had about 30 kilometers on extremely rough and pot-holed roads. Hard surfaces - yes. In fair repair - no. So add the landslides which narrowed the lanes down to one on several occasions and you will get the picture.

We continued on and finally came to a high passage overlooking the lake on which we would be staying. We stopped and immediately were confronted with vendors trying to trade wares for Quetzales. They got nothing and we got only two snaps on the Kodak! We had approximately 6 or 7 miles left on our journey and the road even became a bit more smooth as we descended to our final destination for that day, Panajachel and Las Buenas Nuevas.

We pulled up to the gate, rang the bell and were met by the keeper of the door who opened both doors and in we drove. We are in a three-bedroom house which has a full kitchen, two baths, a fireplace....what more could one ask for?

A final note on the fording of the river: the caretaker of the property where we are staying and his wife were making the identical run that we just made with their large Jeep SUV and plowed through the river only to become firmly implanted in its bed. Not to worry as there was a large construction vehicle nearby whose operator came to pull them out. As the operation began, the transmission of the truck gave out and they were both stuck in the middle of the river blocking traffic in both directions. They finally did get out but I am very happy that I heard this story after rather than before my crossing. Oh, we will go back on the new road! 

Passage from Puerto Barrios to Antigua

We easily found the bus depot where we had days before arrived. Now we were ready for our return trip to Antigua. I walked up to the ticket counter and purchased four tickets: two for the return trip from Puerto Barrios to Guatemala City and two from Guatemala City to Antigua. For the nearly six hours of travel home we paid approximately USD5 each.

The first leg was on a large and comfortable bus which was manufactured in Germany. Its air conditioning worked amazingly well and John even commented on the coolness within. We rode for about two hours and then were told that the bus would be stopping for twenty minutes. It was the same stop on the way over so we knew what to expect. So, the surprise was NO SURPRISE. The bus parked in front of an area where gasoline could be purchased and minor repairs might be accomplished. There were vendors selling cashews, macadamia nuts and various fresh fruits. There were also small shops which offered bakery goods, savory items and soft drinks.

Inside the larger area there were many different opportunities for the purchase of food. One could get a full meal or could obtain snacks and other treats. There were also bathrooms for those in need.

We began our trip again and reached Guatemala City and our transfer point for our next micro-bus ride. We arrived at around 5 in the afternoon and our next leg was to begin at 6 en punto (sharp). We were told that the micro bus would be out in the street and we should be aware of its presence and be ready to board. Six o'clock came and went as did 6:30. I asked and was about to board one of the company's micros but was told that the micro was too small to accommodate the number who had made reservations for the short 40 kilometer leg to Antigua. What we were not told is that one of their incoming buses was behind schedule and on it were four or five additional people seeking to be accommodated on our itinerary. 

It was at perhaps fifteen minutes before seven that we finally saw a larger micro pull up to where we were standing. Now, we were nearly twenty folks awaiting the ride and all but four or five of us had enormous backpacks (not day packs). So, as we all loaded in, the back-most bank of seats were reserved for the luggage which was piled until it touched the ceilings. We were full and the bus company earned its keep on that run.

We arrived Antigua and exited the bus just blocks from where we live. It was good to be away but best to have returned to our dry and cool environment. A very apt saying in Swedish is in order "borta bra men hemma bäst" which translated to English would mean that away is good but home is best. A welcome sight and feel to be sure.

Friday was our day of arrival and within 6 days we would again be packing for our time at Lago Atitlán. John has agreed to provide bread and treats for a medical team that would be working about 45 minutes from where we would be staying at Las Buenas Nuevas in Panajachel.

From Belize to Guatemala - Punta Gorda to Puerto Barrios

Our check-in time at our hotel in Punta Gorda was to be after 2 p.m. and we were arriving around noon so we exited the bus and found our way to a small restaurant open to the sides called Snack Shack. We had noticed it when we first arrived in PG and it seemed a popular and busy place. We walked into it and wandered up to the ordering window. Only burritos were available since it was past their breakfast time so John and I ordered each one. I had breakfast sausage (chicken) and he had beef. The tortillas were extra large and the fillings were tasty and took care of us in nice order. We saw also brownies under a glass cover and a pound cake which caused some interest. We topped off our meals with a piece of cake each and coffee/tea.

While we were eating we noticed a fairly young mother who wandered in and out of the kitchen. She had three children and we could hear only the Mayan language being spoken by here to her children. But, when other folks wandered in speaking English, she switched to an unaccented American dialect of English. Not only was she speaking those two languages, we caught her speaking the English Creole to the blacks who were working in the kitchen. And here I struggle to speak a little Spanish aside from English! Our curiosity got the best of us and we simply asked her about herself. She responded that she was born and reared here in Belize. My next question then was about what were her parents up to at the time of her birth. She responded that her folks were missionaries and had completed approximately 43 years in an independent mission here among the Mayan people. She stated that her dad at first used a motorcycle in order to get around to tend his missions throughout the south of British Honduras (now Belize). What an interesting coincidence in that John had booked our stay in a hotel in PG which was owned and run by a missionary couple. We would be staying in her parents' hotel. And this woman and her Mayan husband were the owners of the Snack Shack. As a matter of fact, we smelled muffins being baked and I asked if they were available in the shop. She said that they were for a hotel in the area (which turned out to be her parents'.)

It was nearly 2 now so we walked the four blocks to the hotel. Her parents were not there as they were in the USA. But, the person running the front desk showed up at about 2:20 so we were able to get into our rooms, turn on the air conditioning and hang up some of the sour, mold-infested clothing. There was no restaurant in the hotel but there was to be a breakfast in the top-most portion of the hotel. We showered with pressurized hot and cold showers and there were large fluffy and thirsty towels. There were even wash cloths provided for us. We put the window unit air conditioner on full tilt and the two overhead fans a twirling and situated the sour clothing such that it got full benefit of the dry air. We caught up on Internet, watched the foolishness going on between the political folks in the USA and finally drifted off to sleep. All without supper. I honestly do not think that either of us had one iota of desire for nourishment.

We awakened in the morning and went up to the breakfast room. We were the only occupants of the hotel that night. There were a couple of bananas, two banana muffins, margarine (ugh!), powdered milk, oatmeal, Cheerios, coffee and tea. Not exciting but it was just okay. We descended to our room, packed up our clothing and I finally was able to wear my Levis again. But, if any of you has ever caught the odor of a sour and moldy mop, that is exactly what I smelled like as I was wearing my perennially moist Levis. Now, this does work to one's advantage when entering a bus. One might have had a seatmate for a spell but suddenly one has more room to "spread out". We checked out of the hotel but were sure to wrap our electronics and passports in water-proof baggies. We had learned. Or, at least I figured we had learned and applied our knowledge. We walked down to the custom and immigration point and I saw the pilot of the boat that had taken us here a couple of days before. I knew he had the Punta Gorda to Livingston run so I asked him where the pilot was for the longer crossing over to Puerto Barrios. He pointed his chin at a young lad standing not far away. We went over and made arrangements to be aboard the 9 a.m.

Since it was only 8 in the morning and since we really did enjoy the environment at the Snack Shack, we decided to wander over that way for our last cup of tea and coffee in Belize. We entered and saw the mother getting two of her three children ready for school. We ordered coffee and tea and I let my eyes wander to the glass covered pastries and there appeared some fabulous caramel rolls. I ordered one to split and we sat down to await our launch. The rolls were made by a friend of the owner's and they were first-class, A-1. Simply wonderful. Now, you know that I had some misgivings about the launches outlined in the previous postings. This one was going to be over an hour and on fairly open seas. And, just the day before we had received word that the crossings were rough! Add the fact that I do not do well on the water when it is rough. Forget about getting wet.....I do not want to get sick! But, the roll was far too good to waste and I consumed it with delight.

The owner was very helpful to us and suggested that we would most likely get wet but there are options in the launch. If one sits in the middle front, the ride can be very bumpy but chances of getting drenched are far less than if one is planted in the back and on the sides. The owner assured us that this would be a far larger launch than the ones we had taken before. She told us that there would be room for about 30 passengers. That gave me some assurances since we would be in open waters which only yesterday were very choppy. I decided that if possible, I would select middle front. Forget my coccyx.

We finished our treats and wandered over to Immigration and Customs where we cleared passport control and paid our exit tax (USD37.50) and were pointed towards Immigration. Nobody there so we just waited in the shade for somebody to appear. Soon a large black man asked us which launch we were going to catch. We told him the 9:00 a.m. and he answered that there was nothing until 9:30. So, he cleared us and we waited for our delayed departure. We kept our eyes focused on our launch and when the first passengers began to head for it. we dashed ahead and situated ourselves in our priority places. Our bags were placed on a black plastic sheet and covered securely with another sheet folded over at the front and pointed back towards us. At least our luggage should arrive safely and maybe dry? We were joined by perhaps another dozen or so folks and were soon ready to be on our way.

We circled out towards the deep but before we went further, the helper handed each of us a life saver! Oh boy, what is ahead for us? Additionally each row was given a large, black plastic sheet which should help us keep high and dry during our crossing. Because inquisitive minds want to know, I turned around and asked a lady passenger how long the crossing should take. She answered one hour. I can take that! While this might be the end of water journeys for us, it was not to be for her as her final destination would be Honduras which was another hop by boat. It was rough and it pounded our tails often and without mercy. The tender and high-maintenance need not apply. It was only five minutes before I realized that if I were going to be dry (on my last dry digs), I would need to make a tent of my portion of the black plastic. I did that and stayed relatively dry. For all my misgivings, this crossing was the best of all. I might consider taking it again some time. The tail was sore but I will anytime take that to wet clothing.

The motor slowed and I emerged from my tent intact. Yea. My hand finally was at ease and I released my grip on my salvavida (lifesaver) and passport. We edged up to the dock, emerged from the launch and were met by a handful of men all offering to help us in varying ways. We knew what to do so walked straight up the street to Immigration where we had our passport stamped for another ninety days and then headed in the rain to the bus depot. Our next leg would take place in under one hour.

At Back-a-Bush

The first day with the Dutch couple we remained at the compound. We did little other than to become acquainted with the fellow sojourners. We found ourselves spending more and more time with the Americans than with those who originated from the Netherlands. It is strange to hear just about everybody in the world refer to the United States of America as America. It is correct but it at the same time is totally incorrect because we have no exclusive hold on the term America or Americans. We are a very small part of the Americas as a whole and the Costa Ricans, the Mexicans, the Canadians, the Venezuelans, the Hondurans, the Guatemalans and every body else living here are all Americans. My brain itches every time I hear the word American attached only to those of us who call the USA home. You know Ole, it is just aint right what day say!

Persistent rains visited us throughout our two-day stint in the Mayan village of San Miguel. Get real...we have arrived in the rain forest! But that hampered us not in the least as we had good opportunities to become better acquainted with those in the group that we had joined. We played games at the table, spent time hearing of and exchanging travel stories and adventures and just loafed a lot in the comfort of the hammocks. Other than the three meals provided by Elizabeth, there were drinks available throughout the day. These included those with alcohol as well as juices, coffee and tea. Other than that, there was no snacking in between. That way, for better or for worse, the meals when they were served were consumed with little negative commentary. And, for the record, the meals were basic but good. That means absolutely no frills and little additives (if any) such as salt or sugar.

We had allocated only two days to this specific area so we knew that regardless of the rains, we would be going out the next day. There were two substantial Mayan ruins not far from where we were staying. Elizabeth assured us that the nearest one was an easy and quick walk from Back-a-Bush. So, we had at least that one on our agenda for the next day.

But, after supper and spending substantial times at the tables in conversation, we found the rains lulling us towards the bunkhouse door and to its beds inside. John and I were the first to find our resting places for the night. We hung out our damp clothing which joined the still more than moist clothing already hanging on the lines from the launch crossings and retired for the night. Other than some fairly hard rains that hit the tin roof overhead, I heard nothing other than an occasional snore during the night. Our Costa Rican friends reported that they were exhausted from first their air journey from Costa Rica to Belize followed by the five-hour drive from Belize City to Back-a-Bush. Not having GPS for guidance, they had trusted a map to guide them to our location. Normally, it would have been good to have selected the most direct route since it was marked in red on the maps. But, by so doing they opted for half of their journey on roads in sad state of repairs. Not hard surfaced by any stretch of the imagination but dirt filled with pot holes which the rains had filled to the brim. A rough passage for them and one that tired Gustavo as he attempted to maneuver his rented Jeep over the slimy and uneven mess. So, if either John or I snored or talked in our sleep that night, there were no reports from our new-found friends and bunk mates.

We met the gorgeous dawn without the dogs. They were out hunting and tempting fate. John and I were the first ones up and we selected the choice spots under the thatched area to view the pasture and enjoy the chirping of the birds. The hens were slowly examining the new delights that the rains had promoted for them. The yolks of their eggs were a dark yellow-orange giving testimony to their diet out on the free range. They were obviously happy in not being caged in a small rectangle.

Next the Costa Ricans arose and appeared on the scene. Finally Elizabeth and ponytail sauntered down the wet concrete steps and appeared along with the other Dutch guests. We were hungry and had there been silverware on the table there might have been a rap or two in an attempt to summons the genie for food preparation. Ponytail and the young Dutch lad appeared with coffee, freshly brewed from ground beans from their own farm for most of those awaiting the break of fast. I got an extra-hot cup of water into which I introduced my own tea bags (English Breakfast).

A note about the coffee that was served and that was also for sale on the property. The coffee trees are planted in places where they have an umbrella creating a canopy over the tops of the coffee trees. They do not thrive when uncovered. Also, they do very well when there is volcanic soil present. At any rate, Back-a-Bush came with coffee trees adult in nature on the property. And, the Dutch couple had learned the art of fermentation of the coffee cherry together with the extraction and drying of the two coffee beans held inside of each cherry. The roasting is also done out in the open under the thatched area and there was fresh-roasted while we were there. Finally, the grinding is done just before each brewing takes place to ensure freshness of taste. John reported that while the coffee was good tasting and lacked acidity, it was far from strong enough for geriatrics who have lost the keen sense of taste, most Europeans who thrive on very strong brew and foolish North Americans who insist on burnt beans which they doctor with milk, heavy cream and tons of sugar. The coffee served there was good but failed the Golden Spoon reward.

After a substantial as well as comforting breakfast of freshly baked bread with butter from the Mennonite neighbors and jam made on premises by Elizabeth, as well as eggs and potatoes, we joined the Costa Ricans for the "short" trek to the nearest Mayan ruin. The rains had not been with us since very early in the morning so it seemed very promising for the walk. It was both hot and humid and some clouds hung on the horizon. I had my huge Canon camera hung around my neck as I was intent on recording some of what my eyes might be seeing. The Costa Ricans brought along bottles of water, sunscreen, bug juice and their miniature camera to also do some shooting of the site. Now recall that Elizabeth told us the journey was short and our site was easy to find so we had smiles on our faces at least at the inception of our trip. We walked and walked greeting folks along the way. Other than fellow pedestrians and bike riders, we saw just a hand full of vehicles then entire day. There were a few tourist vans and some pickup trucks on the gravel roadway we were traversing. The Mayans in this specific area do not dress in a distinct way that would single them from anybody else. This we found to be very different from other areas of the world where this is not so.

We continued to stroll on the roadway for perhaps an hour and finally came to the sign pointing to the ruin we were seeking. It had a disappointing number on it which gave us pause. The good folks in Belize use miles instead of kilometers to measure distances on highways and roads and we all saw 7 miles to the site. Oh boy! Well, at least it was not raining so we trod on. The road was fairly level so at least we were not climbing on our journey. The rains had made it difficult to carry on without stepping into and sliding a bit on very slippery red clay. But none of us took a tumble. We carried on our journey and each of us wondered how soon the seven miles might be behind us.

Shortly thereafter we approached a rise and upon reaching its zenith, we spied what appeared to be blankets with trinkets displayed for sale. There were mothers and wee lads and lasses ready to assist for anybody interested in a sale. Just ahead also was a deep dip followed by an incline which led up to a small information center and museum. Amazingly, we had shortened the 7 miles into perhaps no more than one as the crow flies. Good for us but an unnecessary distraction to fellow sojourners. John and I fail to purchase trinkets anymore. He has a good warehouse filled with gems from points unknown and with stories that by now have faded from distinct fact. But, the Costa Rican gave the vendors hope in that they promised to not only look but purchase on their exit from the archaeological site.

We entered the information booth and paid our entrance fee to the site. The keeper of the bolsa and the dispenser of tickets indicated that we had walked no fewer than two and one-half miles one way. (Thank-you Elizabeth.) So, now we knew that we could most likely chalk up a five-mile viaje de ida y vuelta.

We walked around following different paths and there were at least two cameras shooting away at this amazing site. Those folks had to have sweated buckets in its construction. But, when one has never seen Jerusalem, how can one compare and contrast? Joining us during our time of visitation were only a handful of others who also were snapping their Kodak Brownies. This site is not unlike hundreds of such sites throughout this area. One defining characteristic though is that there are curved corners on a portion of this site which is unique to this area.

Foolishly neither John nor I took anything like water along with us. But the Costa Ricans came in handy once again. Our friends offered us water for which I was in desperate need. I had begun to feel lacking in pep and knew from past experience that I was becoming dehydrated. Daniela offered some refreshing water and I gladly accepted it.

We were soon ready to make our retreat so exited the area and passed again by the vendors. The Gustavo and Daniela both found items of interest and exchanged them for currency. As we exited the way seemed far shorter than on our outbound leg. Good for us but we were still puzzled about the 7 mile sign. I felt like rubbing a gob of red clay on it to encourage others who might happen by. But, I did not do so.

We ambled along while solving all of the world's problems in conversation. About one mile from returning to Back-a-Bush a very dark purple cloud loomed overhead and a few light sprinkles began to fall. I was trying to figure out what I should do with that piece of electronic equipment dangling from my neck. Because I do my best to conceal the layers of unwanted fat about my body, I am accustomed to purchasing or otherwise acquiring garments several sizes larger than those that would just fit me. Good for my camera because it did fit atop my pot-belly and under the t-shirt that covered it. Not long after Daniela peeked around and made a funny face at my "lady in waiting belly". She asked me if it wouldn't be better to store it in her day pack. Of course that is what I had hoped for at first but figured if I were stupid enough to forget taking a bag along, I should suffer the consequences. She took my camera and tucked it securely into her pack. I offered to carry it for her but she assured me that I should not worry.

We walked in consistently harder rain showers for the balance of our trek to Back-a-Bush. It got way past worrying about anything. Even our lenses in our glasses needed to be wiped by non-existent shield wipers. The perspiration of the day began to wash down into our eyes causing the sun screen and bug juice we had applied to find easy ports in our eyes. That stings! The only remedy is to peer heavenward and hope for more. It came and finally the eyes were irrigated. Yes!

So, how many pairs of pants does one need in the rain forest? I certainly needed more than the one that I was wearing on my trip. Fortunately for me John had thrown in two extra pair of stretch pants. One of them filled the bill for me at least until the others began to dry enough to exchange.

All four of us stripped every shred of clothing from our bodies and added yet another bundle of wets to the overloaded lines outdoors. Showers were available but there was no heated water. The water in the showers and commodes came from rain that had fallen and was collected from the roof-tops. Refreshed and in our last remaining dry duds we joined the others under the thatch. We had missed our lunch meal but none of us worried about being fed. As we sat there, the rains began to subside and the Dutch contingency set out with a Mayan guide to visit the village nearby. We had done our 5-mile walk already and it felt good to just sit.

Gustavo and Daniela played several rounds of Backgammon and John and I watched them, trying to learn so that we too could play. We got out a deck of Phase 10 and taught them to play that game as well.

The afternoon came to an end and the Dutch group returned with no problems regarding the rain. The guide is related to several members of the village and they were able to take cover in one or more of the homes along the route. We were ready for supper and this evening at least all of the Americans took leave of the activities earlier than the night before. The Dutch stayed up and talked and socialized far longer.

Our bus back to Punta Gorda (PG) was going to pick us up the next day at around one in the afternoon. We had planned to have breakfast, pack and go to the roadside where we would signal the bus to stop for us. But the Costa Ricans had other plans. They wanted to include us in a ride to the hard-surfaced highway on their way to the other Mayan ruin. We gladly accepted.

After breakfast and before we were scheduled to depart with Gustavo and Daniela, ponytail asked us to join the Dutch on a tour of the farm. The farm is large and has horses, chickens, gardens, herbs, fruit trees and coffee spread out over many acres. Remember too that it had rained steadily for the two days, more or less since we had arrived. There are mosquitoes, ticks and other annoying insects in the forest so we smeared the bug juice on once again and started out on the tour. Gustavo and Daniela had on only very thin-soled flip-flops. Not good anywhere especially when one considers the slippery mud. And not good either when one has to trudge through a horse pasture where one sinks about four inches into the sludge. We all decided to turn about half way through the tour. John had wisely opted to remain in a hammock during our foray.

We arrived back, packed and climbed into the Jeep. Again, the rains had ceased momentarily. But, we had only driven about three or four miles before the skies opened up on us. We arrived at the highway where we saw a waiting area for the bus, a small concrete shelter open on one side. We joined several others waiting for our bus. Gustavo and Daniela bid us good-bye and they went on their way to the site.

Recall the 7-mile sign? Well, immediately in front of the bus shelter there we saw its twin: 7 miles from that point to the turn. Solved finally.

We boarded the bus which came in about 15 minutes and paid about USD1 for the 40-minute ride to Punta Gorda.

From Puerto Gorda (PG) to San Miguel (Back-a-Bush)

When we entered our bus from PG to Back-a-Bush in San Miguel, the seats of the bus were perhaps 3/4s full. There was adequate room for our things without any crowding. Our journey was punctuated by many quick stops along the hard-surfaced highway. For about 40 minutes we traveled on this road with repetitive stops where passengers with their things got off and others who signaled the driver on roadside entered and seated themselves. A helper collected fares and exchanged greetings with passengers. The helper was very helpful with heavy items and was always there to assist passengers. The condition of the Rain Bird buses here in Belize that we have used was markedly better than those we use in Guatemala. We found that the bus driver owns and operates his own bus and has a personal interest in its continuance. 

For the last twenty minutes of our journey we traveled on a gravel road which was bumpy, irregular and wet from persistent rains that had visited the area. We asked the helper to let us know when we had arrived at San Miguel. Before long, we heard that we had arrived at the Mayan village. We exited along with others and asked the helper where Back-a-Bush was. He pointed his chin in the direction of the road ahead and sent us on our way. As the bus pulled away, we quickly saw it stop just ahead about 200 yards and saw four passengers alight with baggage in hand. Had we asked in advance for Back-a-Bush, we would have been with that group. Instead, we walked the short and insignificant distance to the entrance of our stay for the next two nights. The rains had not been good to the gravel roads we had traversed and there were pot holes and other areas in dire need of repair. We found from the owner of the place where we stayed that the bus drivers are responsible for some of the repairs on these roads here in Belize. Makes sense I suspect since they had a special interest in the passage of their carriages over these roadways. 

If the rains had been unkind to the roadways, they had also served to soak the lawns and driveways. They were mired with slippery mud. Thankfully, John had suggested my purchase of tennies (size 12 in the paca in Antigua for maybe USD3). Instead of squeezing slimy mud into my Keen sandals, I frosted the undersides of my tennies. When we walked up the muddy driveway to the farm and bunk house, the thought crossed my mind of a place far away and many years ago. It was our grandma's yard in Minnesota and we were running around barefoot. She also had chickens roaming about the farm yard depositing their goods here and there. See, we were not so out of date then - free range chickens! Anyway, from time to time our little feet managed to plop directly upon those chicken deposits. The feel of that was much the same as that of the squish of the slippery mud.

We were first greeted by the baying of the pack of curs that are also resident at Back-a-Bush. We edged up the muddy and wet driveway and found a handful of mongrels staring at us. Directly ahead of us was a thatched area perhaps thirty feet square, opened to each of the four sides, with hammocks, tables for eating and socializing, a  small information center with Internet (at USD7.50/hour) and the other guests who had preceded us socializing with our two hosts.

We were greeted by the hosts, a migrated Dutch couple who had tired of the rush of busy life in the Netherlands. The wife had an omnipresent smile and greeting for all of us and the pony-tailed and ear-studded husband was a fine, up-beat and happy addition to the duo. Both of them were fluent in English, the official language of Belize but kept up a running commentary and conversations with the four other visitors who were from their homeland, the Netherlands. It seems that they had been repeat visitors making no fewer than one or two visits each year.

Speaking a bit about the languages spoken in Belize: the official language of course is English. Under the British flag, Belize used to be known as British Honduras. There are two Mayan tongues used there and there is an English-based Creole used mostly by the black population of the country. Spanish, or a version of it, can be spoken and understood by many of the population. We hear often there a person beginning a conversation in one tongue then switching to one or two other tongues before the communication is complete. We were able to speak and be understood by everybody with whom we spoke whether initiating in Spanish or in English.

The owners of Back-a-Bush had moved to Belize in 2004 and this was the first year where they had provided accommodations for those seeking such as we desired. Back-a-Bush is situated in the midst of a Mayan village and is isolated from the services such as places of entertainment and eating establishments. That being the case, one must not expect to find these things outside of the farm and bunkhouse proper. We were unable to even purchase a soda or bottle of water in our wanderings about in the village.

We arrived at an hour or two after midday so our hostess Elizabeth asked us whether or not we would join them for lunch. Having eaten nothing since the night before, John and I decided it would be a good idea to share in the vittles. So, at that time we first took the time to settle into our digs for the next two days: a bunkhouse which had three sets of twin bunk beds. In a brief orientation, we were shown the bathrooms and showers which were just a few yards removed from where we were to sleep. Since there were no others who had been assigned to the bunk house, John and I opted to sleep on the bottoms of two of the three bunks. John made the comment that he had not experienced this type of accommodations since he was a teen-ager nearly half a century ago.

The elderly Dutch couple visitors were assigned the double bed adjacent to our room in the bunk house. Our sleeping arrangements and theirs were separated only by a door which could be maneuvered to open upon demand. So if snoring took place in either chamber, the other wakeful occupants could be well aware of its origin. The younger visiting couple from the Netherlands had their own tent and set up their sleeping arrangements while we were waiting for lunch.I suspect their snoring might annoy or at least cause interest to the curs still on residence.

Elizabeth was busy preparing our lunch in the ground floor of the owners home. Elizabeth and her pony-tailed husband slumbered upstairs. They had access to the upstairs via a set of concrete steps on the outside. The steps were constantly wet while we were there because the rains were relentless and there were no railings on each side of the steps to assist the slipping climber. We noticed similar layouts of construction on many other structures in Belize with no access from one floor to another inside but only outside.

After we settled into and made tidy our nests, we emerged to await the surprises and delights of Elizabeth. There were at least four large hammocks that were wide enough for the most portly human to rest at a 90-degree angle to the ends where they were secured on the posts overhead. I asked the husband where they had purchased them and he said they spotted them in Mexico on a trip there and liked them because they were commodious. I agreed with him and they provided good restful spots for portions of the next couple of days, especially in the early mornings when nobody other than John and I had arisen. Those times were especially calming because even the dogs were not roaming about desiring petting.

Speaking of the dogs: they on both mornings were absent when we arose. It seems that they go out hunting during the nights and early mornings and return well into the day. They bear witness to their roaming as they are covered with ticks, fleas and deep scratches from poking their noses a bit too close to the holes of creatures who possess very sharp claws. They also offer free showers to us when they return. They roam it seems at times when the rain forest is getting its omnipresent soakings. So, as they approach for a pat, they offer in return a solid shaking thereby sharing with us the fresh rainfall tainted by the stale wet dog odor. A tick or two might be thrown in for good measure.

Elizabeth announced lunch and produced a large skillet which was filled to the brim with what appeared to be potatoes which had been fried or baked with onions, some miscellaneous vegetables and a few other herbs. Plates were set on the table with a knife and fork for each person. No glasses, cups, spoons, napkins or any other item of food or drink appeared. Neither salt nor pepper was ever on the table. Elizabeth told us that today we would be eating bread fruit which grows on their own property. We were eight to be served lunch and when the dish was apportioned out to each of us, we all had more than adequate amounts.

Neither John nor I had ever before tasted what we were served. My best attempt at describing the bread fruit would be to tell you that it seemed like the texture of cubed potatoes and the taste was somewhat like them also. It is a food that I would eat if there were nothing else available. I am far too old to adjust to its delights. Perhaps had I been introduced at a younger age it might have been okay. But, not for me though I am happy to have had that new item under my belt. We have tasted the starch substitute in both of Hawaii and in Central America which resembles the taste and sometimes texture of the bread fruit.

Elizabeth told us that to feed the entire bunch around the table, she had used only about half of one bread fruit. A very economical food, indeed and one that would never cut into their produce budget.

While we were eating the dogs announced the entrance of a vehicle in the driveway. Pony tail got up and walked over to the vehicle and upon returning we noticed that there was a young couple following him. They sat at another table and we could hear them speak English. Soon the husband was back at the table with the rest of us and he told us that he could not speak Spanish but he was speaking English with those folks who had flown into Belize City from their homeland of Costa Rica and rented a vehicle to drive the five hours down to Back-a-Bush and were looking for lodging. So, now it appeared that they would be our bunkmates in the communal sleeping area.

After lunch both of John and I decided it was time to catch a nap so we found our respective bunks and found rest. It felt good to lie down after the trauma of the crossing from Livingston to Punta Gorda even though it was less of a challenge than our primary one from Puerto Barrios to Livingston.

I awakened to the voices of John and of the couple who were sitting together at one of the tables under the thatched roof area. I joined them and found that their English was far superior to my feeble attempt at Spanish so that is what we settled on as a common language. We found that they were sister and brother. Daniela was a graphic designer and Gustavo was an employee of a telephone and Internet provider who was involved in the installation in businesses and homes.

We became good friends with the Costa Ricans while the folks from the Netherlands were in a world of their own. Pony tail spent more time in conversation with the four of us Americans than he did with the Europeans. I suspect it was a way of spreading the host thing with the entire group. But, we all mixed and were able to converse in our common language: English. The hosts were completely conversant in English as were the Costa Ricans. Of the four Dutch visitors, only the young man spoke without hesitation in English. The other three could speak limitedly and seemed to understand most things in English but hesitated when it came to asking questions or talking in technical or idiomatic terms.

A bit more about the owners of Back-a-Bush might be in order. When I questioned about how they decided on Belize, they responded that they were always wanting to live a simpler life but figured they would aim for somewhere in Africa. That never seemed to be right for them and they decided to give Central America a try. I believe they said they were going to try skin-diving and were headed for either Nicaragua or Honduras but ended up in Belize. There they befriended two younger Mayans who told them of a plot of land that their father had in a Mayan village. They indicated that their father was ready to sell his farm. Through these young men they were able to connect with the father and when the offer was made for sale, it was accepted. That was not the end of it though as they needed the approval of the elder in the village in order to take title to land within the Mayan circle. This was sought and given and they moved into the place in 2004. There was a tin-covered and walled structure where the father lived and slept. That has now been converted to the bunk house. There was also a thatched area adjacent to the enclosed structure which served as a living area and kitchen for the man. This was demolished and a concrete structure now stands there. The bottom portion is the kitchen and storage area and the top floor is used for sleeping.

There is an abundance of fruit and produce growing on the farm. Citrus of all varieties, many tropical fruits, coffee, bread fruit, etc. Herbs grow unabated throughout the property and Elizabeth finds uses for them in the preparation of nearly all of her foods.

Almost without exception in this area we found thatch as the covering on most of the homesteads. Some but not all of them were also open on the sides similar to the one we saw at Back-a-Bush.