When we entered our bus from PG to Back-a-Bush in San Miguel, the seats of the bus were perhaps 3/4s full. There was adequate room for our things without any crowding. Our journey was punctuated by many quick stops along the hard-surfaced highway. For about 40 minutes we traveled on this road with repetitive stops where passengers with their things got off and others who signaled the driver on roadside entered and seated themselves. A helper collected fares and exchanged greetings with passengers. The helper was very helpful with heavy items and was always there to assist passengers. The condition of the Rain Bird buses here in Belize that we have used was markedly better than those we use in Guatemala. We found that the bus driver owns and operates his own bus and has a personal interest in its continuance.
For the last twenty minutes of our journey we traveled on a gravel road which was bumpy, irregular and wet from persistent rains that had visited the area. We asked the helper to let us know when we had arrived at San Miguel. Before long, we heard that we had arrived at the Mayan village. We exited along with others and asked the helper where Back-a-Bush was. He pointed his chin in the direction of the road ahead and sent us on our way. As the bus pulled away, we quickly saw it stop just ahead about 200 yards and saw four passengers alight with baggage in hand. Had we asked in advance for Back-a-Bush, we would have been with that group. Instead, we walked the short and insignificant distance to the entrance of our stay for the next two nights. The rains had not been good to the gravel roads we had traversed and there were pot holes and other areas in dire need of repair. We found from the owner of the place where we stayed that the bus drivers are responsible for some of the repairs on these roads here in Belize. Makes sense I suspect since they had a special interest in the passage of their carriages over these roadways.
If the rains had been unkind to the roadways, they had also served to soak the lawns and driveways. They were mired with slippery mud. Thankfully, John had suggested my purchase of tennies (size 12 in the paca in Antigua for maybe USD3). Instead of squeezing slimy mud into my Keen sandals, I frosted the undersides of my tennies. When we walked up the muddy driveway to the farm and bunk house, the thought crossed my mind of a place far away and many years ago. It was our grandma's yard in Minnesota and we were running around barefoot. She also had chickens roaming about the farm yard depositing their goods here and there. See, we were not so out of date then - free range chickens! Anyway, from time to time our little feet managed to plop directly upon those chicken deposits. The feel of that was much the same as that of the squish of the slippery mud.
We were first greeted by the baying of the pack of curs that are also resident at Back-a-Bush. We edged up the muddy and wet driveway and found a handful of mongrels staring at us. Directly ahead of us was a thatched area perhaps thirty feet square, opened to each of the four sides, with hammocks, tables for eating and socializing, a small information center with Internet (at USD7.50/hour) and the other guests who had preceded us socializing with our two hosts.
We were greeted by the hosts, a migrated Dutch couple who had tired of the rush of busy life in the Netherlands. The wife had an omnipresent smile and greeting for all of us and the pony-tailed and ear-studded husband was a fine, up-beat and happy addition to the duo. Both of them were fluent in English, the official language of Belize but kept up a running commentary and conversations with the four other visitors who were from their homeland, the Netherlands. It seems that they had been repeat visitors making no fewer than one or two visits each year.
Speaking a bit about the languages spoken in Belize: the official language of course is English. Under the British flag, Belize used to be known as British Honduras. There are two Mayan tongues used there and there is an English-based Creole used mostly by the black population of the country. Spanish, or a version of it, can be spoken and understood by many of the population. We hear often there a person beginning a conversation in one tongue then switching to one or two other tongues before the communication is complete. We were able to speak and be understood by everybody with whom we spoke whether initiating in Spanish or in English.
The owners of Back-a-Bush had moved to Belize in 2004 and this was the first year where they had provided accommodations for those seeking such as we desired. Back-a-Bush is situated in the midst of a Mayan village and is isolated from the services such as places of entertainment and eating establishments. That being the case, one must not expect to find these things outside of the farm and bunkhouse proper. We were unable to even purchase a soda or bottle of water in our wanderings about in the village.
We arrived at an hour or two after midday so our hostess Elizabeth asked us whether or not we would join them for lunch. Having eaten nothing since the night before, John and I decided it would be a good idea to share in the vittles. So, at that time we first took the time to settle into our digs for the next two days: a bunkhouse which had three sets of twin bunk beds. In a brief orientation, we were shown the bathrooms and showers which were just a few yards removed from where we were to sleep. Since there were no others who had been assigned to the bunk house, John and I opted to sleep on the bottoms of two of the three bunks. John made the comment that he had not experienced this type of accommodations since he was a teen-ager nearly half a century ago.
The elderly Dutch couple visitors were assigned the double bed adjacent to our room in the bunk house. Our sleeping arrangements and theirs were separated only by a door which could be maneuvered to open upon demand. So if snoring took place in either chamber, the other wakeful occupants could be well aware of its origin. The younger visiting couple from the Netherlands had their own tent and set up their sleeping arrangements while we were waiting for lunch.I suspect their snoring might annoy or at least cause interest to the curs still on residence.
Elizabeth was busy preparing our lunch in the ground floor of the owners home. Elizabeth and her pony-tailed husband slumbered upstairs. They had access to the upstairs via a set of concrete steps on the outside. The steps were constantly wet while we were there because the rains were relentless and there were no railings on each side of the steps to assist the slipping climber. We noticed similar layouts of construction on many other structures in Belize with no access from one floor to another inside but only outside.
After we settled into and made tidy our nests, we emerged to await the surprises and delights of Elizabeth. There were at least four large hammocks that were wide enough for the most portly human to rest at a 90-degree angle to the ends where they were secured on the posts overhead. I asked the husband where they had purchased them and he said they spotted them in Mexico on a trip there and liked them because they were commodious. I agreed with him and they provided good restful spots for portions of the next couple of days, especially in the early mornings when nobody other than John and I had arisen. Those times were especially calming because even the dogs were not roaming about desiring petting.
Speaking of the dogs: they on both mornings were absent when we arose. It seems that they go out hunting during the nights and early mornings and return well into the day. They bear witness to their roaming as they are covered with ticks, fleas and deep scratches from poking their noses a bit too close to the holes of creatures who possess very sharp claws. They also offer free showers to us when they return. They roam it seems at times when the rain forest is getting its omnipresent soakings. So, as they approach for a pat, they offer in return a solid shaking thereby sharing with us the fresh rainfall tainted by the stale wet dog odor. A tick or two might be thrown in for good measure.
Elizabeth announced lunch and produced a large skillet which was filled to the brim with what appeared to be potatoes which had been fried or baked with onions, some miscellaneous vegetables and a few other herbs. Plates were set on the table with a knife and fork for each person. No glasses, cups, spoons, napkins or any other item of food or drink appeared. Neither salt nor pepper was ever on the table. Elizabeth told us that today we would be eating bread fruit which grows on their own property. We were eight to be served lunch and when the dish was apportioned out to each of us, we all had more than adequate amounts.
Neither John nor I had ever before tasted what we were served. My best attempt at describing the bread fruit would be to tell you that it seemed like the texture of cubed potatoes and the taste was somewhat like them also. It is a food that I would eat if there were nothing else available. I am far too old to adjust to its delights. Perhaps had I been introduced at a younger age it might have been okay. But, not for me though I am happy to have had that new item under my belt. We have tasted the starch substitute in both of Hawaii and in Central America which resembles the taste and sometimes texture of the bread fruit.
Elizabeth told us that to feed the entire bunch around the table, she had used only about half of one bread fruit. A very economical food, indeed and one that would never cut into their produce budget.
While we were eating the dogs announced the entrance of a vehicle in the driveway. Pony tail got up and walked over to the vehicle and upon returning we noticed that there was a young couple following him. They sat at another table and we could hear them speak English. Soon the husband was back at the table with the rest of us and he told us that he could not speak Spanish but he was speaking English with those folks who had flown into Belize City from their homeland of Costa Rica and rented a vehicle to drive the five hours down to Back-a-Bush and were looking for lodging. So, now it appeared that they would be our bunkmates in the communal sleeping area.
After lunch both of John and I decided it was time to catch a nap so we found our respective bunks and found rest. It felt good to lie down after the trauma of the crossing from Livingston to Punta Gorda even though it was less of a challenge than our primary one from Puerto Barrios to Livingston.
I awakened to the voices of John and of the couple who were sitting together at one of the tables under the thatched roof area. I joined them and found that their English was far superior to my feeble attempt at Spanish so that is what we settled on as a common language. We found that they were sister and brother. Daniela was a graphic designer and Gustavo was an employee of a telephone and Internet provider who was involved in the installation in businesses and homes.
We became good friends with the Costa Ricans while the folks from the Netherlands were in a world of their own. Pony tail spent more time in conversation with the four of us Americans than he did with the Europeans. I suspect it was a way of spreading the host thing with the entire group. But, we all mixed and were able to converse in our common language: English. The hosts were completely conversant in English as were the Costa Ricans. Of the four Dutch visitors, only the young man spoke without hesitation in English. The other three could speak limitedly and seemed to understand most things in English but hesitated when it came to asking questions or talking in technical or idiomatic terms.
A bit more about the owners of Back-a-Bush might be in order. When I questioned about how they decided on Belize, they responded that they were always wanting to live a simpler life but figured they would aim for somewhere in Africa. That never seemed to be right for them and they decided to give Central America a try. I believe they said they were going to try skin-diving and were headed for either Nicaragua or Honduras but ended up in Belize. There they befriended two younger Mayans who told them of a plot of land that their father had in a Mayan village. They indicated that their father was ready to sell his farm. Through these young men they were able to connect with the father and when the offer was made for sale, it was accepted. That was not the end of it though as they needed the approval of the elder in the village in order to take title to land within the Mayan circle. This was sought and given and they moved into the place in 2004. There was a tin-covered and walled structure where the father lived and slept. That has now been converted to the bunk house. There was also a thatched area adjacent to the enclosed structure which served as a living area and kitchen for the man. This was demolished and a concrete structure now stands there. The bottom portion is the kitchen and storage area and the top floor is used for sleeping.
There is an abundance of fruit and produce growing on the farm. Citrus of all varieties, many tropical fruits, coffee, bread fruit, etc. Herbs grow unabated throughout the property and Elizabeth finds uses for them in the preparation of nearly all of her foods.
Almost without exception in this area we found thatch as the covering on most of the homesteads. Some but not all of them were also open on the sides similar to the one we saw at Back-a-Bush.
We were first greeted by the baying of the pack of curs that are also resident at Back-a-Bush. We edged up the muddy and wet driveway and found a handful of mongrels staring at us. Directly ahead of us was a thatched area perhaps thirty feet square, opened to each of the four sides, with hammocks, tables for eating and socializing, a small information center with Internet (at USD7.50/hour) and the other guests who had preceded us socializing with our two hosts.
We were greeted by the hosts, a migrated Dutch couple who had tired of the rush of busy life in the Netherlands. The wife had an omnipresent smile and greeting for all of us and the pony-tailed and ear-studded husband was a fine, up-beat and happy addition to the duo. Both of them were fluent in English, the official language of Belize but kept up a running commentary and conversations with the four other visitors who were from their homeland, the Netherlands. It seems that they had been repeat visitors making no fewer than one or two visits each year.
Speaking a bit about the languages spoken in Belize: the official language of course is English. Under the British flag, Belize used to be known as British Honduras. There are two Mayan tongues used there and there is an English-based Creole used mostly by the black population of the country. Spanish, or a version of it, can be spoken and understood by many of the population. We hear often there a person beginning a conversation in one tongue then switching to one or two other tongues before the communication is complete. We were able to speak and be understood by everybody with whom we spoke whether initiating in Spanish or in English.
The owners of Back-a-Bush had moved to Belize in 2004 and this was the first year where they had provided accommodations for those seeking such as we desired. Back-a-Bush is situated in the midst of a Mayan village and is isolated from the services such as places of entertainment and eating establishments. That being the case, one must not expect to find these things outside of the farm and bunkhouse proper. We were unable to even purchase a soda or bottle of water in our wanderings about in the village.
We arrived at an hour or two after midday so our hostess Elizabeth asked us whether or not we would join them for lunch. Having eaten nothing since the night before, John and I decided it would be a good idea to share in the vittles. So, at that time we first took the time to settle into our digs for the next two days: a bunkhouse which had three sets of twin bunk beds. In a brief orientation, we were shown the bathrooms and showers which were just a few yards removed from where we were to sleep. Since there were no others who had been assigned to the bunk house, John and I opted to sleep on the bottoms of two of the three bunks. John made the comment that he had not experienced this type of accommodations since he was a teen-ager nearly half a century ago.
The elderly Dutch couple visitors were assigned the double bed adjacent to our room in the bunk house. Our sleeping arrangements and theirs were separated only by a door which could be maneuvered to open upon demand. So if snoring took place in either chamber, the other wakeful occupants could be well aware of its origin. The younger visiting couple from the Netherlands had their own tent and set up their sleeping arrangements while we were waiting for lunch.I suspect their snoring might annoy or at least cause interest to the curs still on residence.
Elizabeth was busy preparing our lunch in the ground floor of the owners home. Elizabeth and her pony-tailed husband slumbered upstairs. They had access to the upstairs via a set of concrete steps on the outside. The steps were constantly wet while we were there because the rains were relentless and there were no railings on each side of the steps to assist the slipping climber. We noticed similar layouts of construction on many other structures in Belize with no access from one floor to another inside but only outside.
After we settled into and made tidy our nests, we emerged to await the surprises and delights of Elizabeth. There were at least four large hammocks that were wide enough for the most portly human to rest at a 90-degree angle to the ends where they were secured on the posts overhead. I asked the husband where they had purchased them and he said they spotted them in Mexico on a trip there and liked them because they were commodious. I agreed with him and they provided good restful spots for portions of the next couple of days, especially in the early mornings when nobody other than John and I had arisen. Those times were especially calming because even the dogs were not roaming about desiring petting.
Speaking of the dogs: they on both mornings were absent when we arose. It seems that they go out hunting during the nights and early mornings and return well into the day. They bear witness to their roaming as they are covered with ticks, fleas and deep scratches from poking their noses a bit too close to the holes of creatures who possess very sharp claws. They also offer free showers to us when they return. They roam it seems at times when the rain forest is getting its omnipresent soakings. So, as they approach for a pat, they offer in return a solid shaking thereby sharing with us the fresh rainfall tainted by the stale wet dog odor. A tick or two might be thrown in for good measure.
Elizabeth announced lunch and produced a large skillet which was filled to the brim with what appeared to be potatoes which had been fried or baked with onions, some miscellaneous vegetables and a few other herbs. Plates were set on the table with a knife and fork for each person. No glasses, cups, spoons, napkins or any other item of food or drink appeared. Neither salt nor pepper was ever on the table. Elizabeth told us that today we would be eating bread fruit which grows on their own property. We were eight to be served lunch and when the dish was apportioned out to each of us, we all had more than adequate amounts.
Neither John nor I had ever before tasted what we were served. My best attempt at describing the bread fruit would be to tell you that it seemed like the texture of cubed potatoes and the taste was somewhat like them also. It is a food that I would eat if there were nothing else available. I am far too old to adjust to its delights. Perhaps had I been introduced at a younger age it might have been okay. But, not for me though I am happy to have had that new item under my belt. We have tasted the starch substitute in both of Hawaii and in Central America which resembles the taste and sometimes texture of the bread fruit.
Elizabeth told us that to feed the entire bunch around the table, she had used only about half of one bread fruit. A very economical food, indeed and one that would never cut into their produce budget.
While we were eating the dogs announced the entrance of a vehicle in the driveway. Pony tail got up and walked over to the vehicle and upon returning we noticed that there was a young couple following him. They sat at another table and we could hear them speak English. Soon the husband was back at the table with the rest of us and he told us that he could not speak Spanish but he was speaking English with those folks who had flown into Belize City from their homeland of Costa Rica and rented a vehicle to drive the five hours down to Back-a-Bush and were looking for lodging. So, now it appeared that they would be our bunkmates in the communal sleeping area.
After lunch both of John and I decided it was time to catch a nap so we found our respective bunks and found rest. It felt good to lie down after the trauma of the crossing from Livingston to Punta Gorda even though it was less of a challenge than our primary one from Puerto Barrios to Livingston.
I awakened to the voices of John and of the couple who were sitting together at one of the tables under the thatched roof area. I joined them and found that their English was far superior to my feeble attempt at Spanish so that is what we settled on as a common language. We found that they were sister and brother. Daniela was a graphic designer and Gustavo was an employee of a telephone and Internet provider who was involved in the installation in businesses and homes.
We became good friends with the Costa Ricans while the folks from the Netherlands were in a world of their own. Pony tail spent more time in conversation with the four of us Americans than he did with the Europeans. I suspect it was a way of spreading the host thing with the entire group. But, we all mixed and were able to converse in our common language: English. The hosts were completely conversant in English as were the Costa Ricans. Of the four Dutch visitors, only the young man spoke without hesitation in English. The other three could speak limitedly and seemed to understand most things in English but hesitated when it came to asking questions or talking in technical or idiomatic terms.
A bit more about the owners of Back-a-Bush might be in order. When I questioned about how they decided on Belize, they responded that they were always wanting to live a simpler life but figured they would aim for somewhere in Africa. That never seemed to be right for them and they decided to give Central America a try. I believe they said they were going to try skin-diving and were headed for either Nicaragua or Honduras but ended up in Belize. There they befriended two younger Mayans who told them of a plot of land that their father had in a Mayan village. They indicated that their father was ready to sell his farm. Through these young men they were able to connect with the father and when the offer was made for sale, it was accepted. That was not the end of it though as they needed the approval of the elder in the village in order to take title to land within the Mayan circle. This was sought and given and they moved into the place in 2004. There was a tin-covered and walled structure where the father lived and slept. That has now been converted to the bunk house. There was also a thatched area adjacent to the enclosed structure which served as a living area and kitchen for the man. This was demolished and a concrete structure now stands there. The bottom portion is the kitchen and storage area and the top floor is used for sleeping.
There is an abundance of fruit and produce growing on the farm. Citrus of all varieties, many tropical fruits, coffee, bread fruit, etc. Herbs grow unabated throughout the property and Elizabeth finds uses for them in the preparation of nearly all of her foods.
Almost without exception in this area we found thatch as the covering on most of the homesteads. Some but not all of them were also open on the sides similar to the one we saw at Back-a-Bush.
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